Guess my question is, does this seem right for 45 years of wear on the linkage or any ideas on what I may be doing wrong? Google came up with a thread where someone made a new threaded link that was a bit longer to get the adjustment in spec. Is this a common fix? I'm afraid I do not have enough threads engaged in the plunger and it will strip out after I have put it back together. Next is the position control, same deal I am right at the end of the threads on the position control rod and couldn't quite get to 0.2, something close to 0.28Ĭhecked and double checked the requirements for draft control lever, quadrant and lift arm positions and am reasonably sure they were set properly for each adjustment. If I try to set it at 0.03 I run out of threads. I could barely get it to 0.2 which is listed for early models and then I'm not sure how many threads are actually engaged in the plunger.
FORD 3000 DRAFT CONTROL ADJUSTMENT MANUAL
The IT manual says for current model to set the control valve to 0.030 measured from the end of the bushing. I’m thinking grade8 bolt and tack the nut to the bolt.Rebuilding the lift on my 71 3000 and just finished the two lift adjustments as outlined in the IT manual but not real confident they are correct.įirst adjustment is in Draft control and you adjust the turnbuckle. What should I use to replace that pin? The diagram looks like 1/4” diameter pin with a spacer between the arm and the linkage? It also looks like I have to disassemble a lot more stuff to get to it, that’s why I’m trying to get familiar with the adjustments. More pressure will definitely speed it up, if you have that adjustment. I don’t know if that missing pin is making the difference?Īt this point I’m really trying to just get more familiar with it. I just love this forum Even I can offer advice on stuff I know little about. Now I’ve tried these adjustments with that pin still missing, I just manually moved the linkage. The spring looked close to being collapsed. The second one I think the bolt ran out of thread and at that point the head of the bolt was no longer contacting the other arm. I went to adjust the control linkages, the first one. I feel like it’s been resealed at some point. Flushed the system with some diesel to clean it out, changed the o-rings / gaskets, adjusted the draft position linkage, primed the hydraulic pump and it works great. I’m not really seeing anything jumping out at me. The biggest thing I found was that the draft position lever was out of adjustment (about 50 off). I decided it was enough Of a pain in the but to get this far, reseal the top plate. I removed the top plate, and found a missing pin where the control lever attaches to the linkage. Lift arms in the same position as with the Qualitrol adjustment. The biggest thing I found was that the draft position lever was out of adjustment (about 50 off). Tighten the turnbuckle lock nut and recheck the measurement. 3 point was almost unusable at that point. Adjust the turnbuckle on the control valve until the front edge of the control valve is 10mm from the rear face of the control valve bush in the ram cylinder. So I’ve used it like that until recently when the control selector felt like nothing was on the other end. Never drop enough for the implement to do its job. And for me to use an implement, I always had to put it in draft control. The position lever only has about 1” of movement. Of funny to me since I’ve owned it but this was my first real tractor. If the auto draft is engaged the weight of the bush hog on the upper link will tell the hitch to stop lifting. I’m not in front of it but I believe the tag under the hood calls it a D4014c? The easy way to tell is if it does it will a) have a movable (pivoting) upper 3pth mounting boss, and b) it will have 2 levers that control the 3pth raise/lower function. was originally equipped with loader and backhoe. I’m new here I believe what I have is a 1968 Ford 4000 industrial.
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